In our latest article, Bethan Thorsby, who heads up our Antique, Vintage and Retro Textiles department, delves into the evolving world of trainer collecting. She explores how trainers have transformed from functional sports gear into powerful symbols of identity and spots the parallels between more ‘traditional’ collecting and the sneakerhead movement.
“All sneakerheads know, it’s been a long time since training shoes were worn solely for sport. Trainers have been a collectable item for decades, leaving behind sports associations to align with rappers and fine artists – even ethical organisations such as National Geographic are getting involved. As footwear fanatics get savvier, a new wave of eco-conscious kicks is reshaping the UK’s streetwear scene.
“The evolution of sneaker culture traces back to the late 19th century when lawn shoes were developed for sports like croquet and tennis. By 1917, Converse introduced the All Star, marking a major shift in athletic footwear and its ability to achieve cult status.
“You’ve heard of Adidas and Puma, brands famed for their sought-after celebrity collaborations with musicians such as Run DMC and Rihanna, respectively. Before setting up these household brands, the two founders were a pair of brothers who pioneered today’s celebrity influencer marketing tactics. They catapulted the success of their family shoe business, Dassler, in the 1920s with an endorsement of athlete Jesse Owens, who wore Dassler shoes as he became the first person to win four gold medals at the 1935 Olympics.
“Iconic activewear brand Nike surged into the mainstream with the urban jogging era of the 1970s. They popularised their inimitable Air Force 1 model with monthly colour drops, later cementing the brand’s multi-billion-pound legacy through a landmark collaboration with basketball legend Michael Jordan.
“With sneakers containing up to 65 separate components, the environmental toll is taking the shine off new kicks. Demand for manufacturers to become more planet-friendly has prompted the sneakersphere’s major players and emerging brands to explore sustainable alternatives, from incorporating dredged ocean plastics to a return to crafting with natural fibres.
“What’s more, as the wider fashion world experiences a mindset shift away from fast fashion and damaging means of production, sneaker collectors are also pivoting to a new, eco-friendly ethos.
“Collectors are turning to the second-hand market, sourcing from specialist auctions and resale platforms to buy and sell their coveted and cult shoes. Auction houses offer the opportunity for the sneaker-obsessed to secure rare archival pairs while swapping out space in the closet for their constantly evolving hauls. In a culture once obsessed with hype drops and limited editions, the new must-have is sustainability.”
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